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Forum Newbie
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Last Login: 6/11/2009 12:09:50 AM
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| I just bought a Nissan 300ZX Turbo Tuesday night at an auction for $900, and has alot wrong with, first of all, its leaking coolant, its slow as hell (I think it needs a new fuel filter) and almost none of the electical works, the only stuff that works are the headlights (they turn on, but don't flip up) the power windows, the power seats, and the power mirrors. NOTHING else works. I have break lights, no turn signals, no interior lights, no radio, no air condiction, no windsheild wipers (front and back), etc. I checked all the fuses and they were good, I checked the relays, and the only thing I could figer out is where the one for the starter is, and that it works. I have no idea whats wrong with the electrical, or how to fix it, does anyone have any idea? I could really use some help! right now I can't legaly drive it beacouse of the lack of break lights, I need to get it to the point that I can drive it every day, so I can sell my other car.
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Forum Member
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Last Login: 6/14/2009 5:01:46 AM
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| According to your post, I can't tell if your brake lights are working or not. If not, check for power at brake light switch located at your brake pedal. (I no nothing about Nissan 300 ZX so someone might have to correct me). But first, check your rear light bulbs. Maybe they're just burned out. Rear light bulbs have two filaments. One for your park light, the other for brake light. Burned bulbs would also explain the no turn signals problem too. Interior lights usually ground out at the door switch next to your door hinges. These switches might just need to be cleaned to make a good connection. Again, check all bulbs first. I would check for power at each bulb. Your air conditioning will not work if there is no freon in the car. A low pressure cutout switch will not allow it to come on. But you might have additional problems in your a/c control head which you might need to take apart and probe around. Not sure what to tell you there. You just need a good volt/Ohm/Meter, a test light and some jumper wires and get busy and do some troubleshootin!
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Forum Newbie
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Last Login: 6/14/2009 4:47:04 AM
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Do some ground wire checking. Should be a double grounding wire connected to the battery. One as a cable to the engine block and another as a jumper to a body location, like the side of the inner fender. Then check for a grounding strap from the engine block to the firewall area.
Just about all the relays are controlled by a grounding wire, so if you find a ground of wires that ground at the same location, remove them and clean the area and also make sure it is a grounded location.
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Forum Newbie
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Last Login: 6/11/2009 12:09:50 AM
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| well, I figered it out, the wire on the fusible link that goes to the fuse box is bad, so I put another wire on it, but then it kept getting hot and melting, so I removed the fusible link, and replaced it with a make-shift breaker, so now when it gets hot, it shuts off untill it cools, so now I need to figer out whats making it hot, any ideas?
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Forum Member
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Last Login: 6/14/2009 5:01:46 AM
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I would go directly to the fuse box. Find out why that main wire is shorting out. Using an ohm meter I would check:
1. From the makeshift breaker to the fuse box. High resistance would indicate a short or an open circuit.
2. Breaker to ground. Low resistance would indicate a short to ground.
3. Fuse box to ground. Same as above.
(Disconnect Battery before testing with ohm meter and try to isolate the wire(s)as much as possible)
Any devices pulling excessive current downstream of the fuse box would blow the fuses. So the problem has to be in that fusible link wire you found.
The only other thing that comes to mind is the headlights and headlight dimmer switch pulling heavy amps.
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